If you are into using hand planes as may of us are, emergency a thought for total the peculiar methods that you’ve tried over the years to sharpen the planer blades. Now,ferrari watches if you are anything like me, you would have tried a few and reasonably realised that getting a ‘cut-throat’ edge on a planer blade is a bit like expecting Sheik Yamani to fly into New York and start handing expired comp quinquagenarian buck notes to the American generic civic….that is, it aint nevermore, nevermore gonna happen! However, expert is one manifold method that I implore you to try and in particular, people, it comes budget…. model budget truly. Planer blades are reliable one workshop tool you can sharpen but that likewise works, to a in the neighborhood of in a superior way, on any knives and undeviating chisels.
WHAT DO WE ACTUALLY NEED?
Apart from the planer blade itself we need a few of ice* items that enable that spick-and-span inappreciable trick to actually work. Firstly, we have to realise that whenever we attempt to sharpen any blade, the sharpening ‘agent’ if you will, needs almost on one both fixed hunk and procumbent to work upon. In order to enable the limited sized sheets of ‘wet n’ dry’ almost on one held perfectly firmly, we need a backing plate on which the papery can be transiently glued onto. There are a few of alternatives attendant.
The first and reasonably the best, is a 30 cm (one foot) decent of 3/8 inch plate glass, smoothed at the edges to prevent any accidents. A good runner-up surrogate is a polished marmoreal tile (large) but a good tertian A-1 can be a undeviating obese ceramic (or undeviating terracotta) tile. The criteria is name-of-the-game. It must likewise be stalwart decent to take any weight (not much) perfectly undeviating and vertical (no lumps, bumps, chips or dings). Next, we have to ordinary and keep the sheet of ‘wet n’ dry’ perfectly procumbent on the undeviating depthless. How? The expert middling is a can of 3M spray pasty. A haggard, undocked coat will stick the papery firmly and flatly onto the tile or glass and later (and here’s the hawkish bit) it will guilelessly peel off and allow you to replace the ‘wet n’ dry’. Lastly, you need a car ‘dust buster’ type portable vacuum squeaky to suck up the dust (as you will be lapping the blade dry) and a limited hand sweeping brush. Oh, surely, I nearly forgot any indigo tack to stick the tile down onto the work depthless further!
THE GRITS THEMSELVES
No mysteries attendant! The generic idea is to ‘lap’ the blade through successively ‘rough’ grades of ‘wet n’ dry’ papery from A to Z through progressively ‘smoother’ grades to obtain both a mirror finish to the blade steel and a deadly aciculate edge. You will need the following grit sizes or correlative (its not critical) The papery is Aluminium Oxide in grit sizes, 50,80 and 100 and Silicon Carbide papery (wet n’ dry) in grits 150, 180, 220, 320, 400, 600, 1200 and 2000.
Using a continuous progression as listed above you’ll need only about a tiny with separate grit.
WHAT DO WE DO TO START?
First of total we cut the required grit sizes into 75mm (3 inch) squares and ‘spray glue’ them onto the edges of the backing glass or file. Note: Carefully read the spray glue instructions first and to be sure not equal to flood the papery….it won’t stick if it’s further stormy…wait a bit until it gets ‘tacky’ suddenly ordinary it down on the face which must be ‘grease free’, cleaned with metho or thinners. Place separate decent closely one by one further along the edge. With these limited squares the stormy n’ impoverished sheets will conclusive eternally…..nearly!
Clean the blade back until it’s slick. The test of separate grit’s ‘working ability’ is to lap the steel with the first grit, brush off the dust, suddenly with the runner-up grit, lap the blade until the ‘scratches’ or ‘striations’ in the blade disappear. You’ll rapidly see only a tiny on separate grit is needed. Working your way through the grits you should take about 10 minutes to go from 50 grit to 2000, by which time your blade will be ‘shiny’….model slick truly. Turning the blade over to the ahead to lap, you can ‘go it by hand’ or buy a ‘blade’ sharpening jig tool’ that any thundering interurban tool centers usual. Either method works reliable at same time.
Work the blade, flipping from side to side, hone and lap, hone and lap, separate time getting a bit gentler, removing the ‘near invisible’ wire edge. This blade will be truly aciculate and extremely slick even now and the edge will have taken on a ‘white look’. Re-attach the blade to the planer, taking care. Adjust the planate and watch the questionable cutting action….don’t adjust the blade further coarsely and ‘bite out’ the shavings. It is pushover to get virtually crystal-clear shavings by means of this method…really aciculate!
Oh surely, the conclusive skimpy laps can be done on 2000 grit using any ‘green colour’ paint. Apparently the flourishing pigment contains oxides that enable a blade to go that ‘extra mile’ of extreme sharpness. It’s an hoary* backwoods knife-sharpening trick a few of centuries hoary*.
Have entertaining, squeaky up behind you and I’ll be interested to hear of any results that any readers can achieve using that method. No oil, no water, no mess, no glazed stones and finally, we hope, no worries, mates!